Cat Forklift Serial Number Lookup

03.06.2020

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Cat Forklift Serial Number Lookup Free
Cat Forklift Serial Number Decoder

Caterpillar Engine Serial Number Format. It’s a little hard to find something when you don’t know what you’re looking for. We get people that try to give us part numbers, casting numbers, or even VIN’s instead of ESN’s, simply because they don’t know what an engine serial number should look like. All Caterpillar ESN’s have a. Serial Number Guide; Auction Trends. Construction Auction Trends; Trucking Auction Trends; Lift Trucks Auction Trends; Resources. Auction Calendar; Auction Companies; Inspection Guide. Articulated Truck; Backhoe Loader; Crawler Dozer; Elevating Scraper; Excavator; Motor Grader; Rough Terrain Crane; Single Drum Compactor; Skid-Steer Loader. Sometimes, a Caterpillar forklift’s serial number can be found physically stamped on its frame. Below is a list of different models of Caterpillar forklifts and some diagrams showing where their serial numbers can be found.

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Plastic
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Towmotor Forklift model ????
Hi
Can anyone help me as to what year, model and lifting specs this forklift would have? There are no tags anywhere on it. 4 cylinder gas flat head motor, I have only seen these forklifts on the internet, but they were different, this one has little fender flares, all the other ones are smooth over the wheels.
It has a 2 speed transmission, and manual steering. Owner said it was a 5000 lb lifting capacity, but it looks kinda small, but what do I know about these older machines. I need a forklift with atleast 4000 lb lifting capacity, and I came across this one.
Are parts hard to get? The breaks do not work. The top of the mast cylinder leaks alot of fluid when its almost down.
This forklift runs and starts very easy, abit hard to steer when not moving.
Thankyou for any help you guys might be able to give.
More pictures here too. Pictures by Billyisgr8 - Photobucket
Hot Rolled
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I'm not positive but I think what you have is called a box car fork truck, in your picture of the left side see where the paint is scuffed from getting off and on now go to the other side and look carefully below where the paint is scuffed you should find some stamped in numbers that and a call to a fork truck co. should give you all the info you need. TJMHO
Stainless
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This truck has several features in common with 1950s Towmotor and Clark lifts. You need to find an old lift truck mechanic or shop foreman to identify it. If it is a Towmotor, the serial number is stamped on the frame somewhere. Regards, Clark
bigais
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The serial number should be stamped on the frame at the bottom of the cowl facing the mast- the other way to determine this is to measure the distance from the center line of the drive wheel hubcap to the centerline of the steer wheel hubcap with the wheels perfectly straight and it should be either 48 or 50'- this makes it a 480 or 500P, P standing for Pneumatic. The rest of the stamped numbers are the production number and the year made.Cat is the current dealer and will not be of much help on parts- however you can still find some parts if you look around. I worked for Towmotor during this era- that just makes me AN OLD FART!
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Thankyou for the information. I think I see a silhouet of a number in this picture just below the bolt in the cowl when I enlarge the original picture on my computer. I just happen to have taken this picture, I can't read the number, but I will have to go back and take a closer look, maybe try some charcoal on paper. Does this number give a clue to the lifting capacity of the forklift too?
bigais
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That wheelbase will give me what I need and after thinking about it-it could be 42 or 46' Length also. You should be able to scrape off the paint to read the # as it wont hurt it. I can also see the exhaust manifold pipe has been modified and it loks like an alternator was added which means they also could have changed the starter over to 12 volts? As was used on the later Continentals.
Ox
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I have one like it, only solid tire and no little wrap-around fender flares. That is likely part of the pnue option I bet. ???
Also - your motor must be diff than mine. Your distributor come out in a different place. This is prolly a really good thing as I found recently on here that mine is likely no worth fixing if she jumps a tooth aggin.
I really like this little truck and was 1/2 prep'd to fix it up, untill the motor issue popped up.
Mine - with solid tires will pick 4000 if you grab it back on the forks. This one being a pneumatic may struggle with that? Unless possibly this one is a slightly bigger model, but it looks exactly the same.
I really like it inside the shop where it's tight, but I finally got a nice 8K to use where possible.
My brakes haven't werked in several yrs either. Has a leaky wheel cyl I think. Just grind the gears..
BTW - Yes - it is a Towmotor brand. I think it says that on the hydro valve unit. ???
I thought that it was a Clark for many yrs as that is what my steering wheel says. But once I had it in the shop and they informed me that it was a Towmotor. And now I see where it says so.
In your second pic you can just see the word Towmotor casted in the hyd valve stack cover.
Mine is mostly red too. But I think there is a lot of yeller underneath, not including whatever it has 'traded' over the yrs.
You may be able to pick 4000# possibly if it has 32 or 36' forks?
Mine had a broken fork when I got it. I built a rack for it that accepted new style forks and got some 48'ers for it. It won't pick 4000 on the tips, but maybe 1/2 way back. That is with a 15' spacing from the front of the mast (fork) to the axle C/L. (just measured it just now) I am guessing that this ones pnue axle is set back a bit more. ??? Making it less able to lift.
-----------------
Think Snow Eh!
Ox
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Towmotor...positive.
I can only guess the year in a range between 1952 and 1957
Continental engine, most likely an F140, but could be an F162
If you get positive ID let me know how close I am...
The packing nut on the lift cylinder is made to tighten so it compresses the seal pack and stops leaking...IF the seals are still
good. If not, get a new pack. Master cyl should be available on EBAY or other parts house. Compare it to catalog photos.
DO fix the brakes. Less work than fixing the trans, as any gears you may strip or break will not be available.
Plastic
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Thats great info
The forks are 48' One looks as though it was repaired from being broken in the past, and one has gussets on it. The words towmotor are on the counter weight, hubcaps,and hydraulic valve
More pictures at the link below incase you missed them
Pictures by Billyisgr8 - Photobucket
As for power steering, I have read that a ford granada power steering cylinder would work well, and after seeing one , it looks easy to adapt to the towmotor.
The other forklifts I have seen that are similar have been advertised as 4000 pound capacity.
I have to go away for 1 week, so I won't be able to go check out this forklift again till I'm back. Or reply to any other questions. Your replies have been helpful.
I think this toy is very cute, and resembles this forklift very well, even the fender flares.
Ox
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Well I can say that I have now seen the bottom of this here forktruck more than I have my own in the >20 yrs thast I have had it.
I Shirley wouldn't bother with the power steering. Just put a ball on it and man-up.
That is a REALLY nice toy!
I have some wolf track pics from a few yrs ago almost like yours. (Our snow was deeper I think)
---------------------------
Think Snow Eh!
Ox
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I second the 'motor looks like a Continental L-Head' comment. I have an Allis Chalmers that has an L-Head. I don't poke in there very often but that motor looks pretty darned close to what I remember mine looking like!
Alan
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L heads (Flatheads) of any make can usually be spotted from a ways away.
This one doesn't just look like a continental, it is one....90% sure it's an F140.
The reason I'm sure, is I have 2 forklifts that have continentals in them.
Plus I just worked on, then sold a 3rd...a 1957 Towmotor that looked almost exactly like this one in the pics, and it had an F140 in it.
A friend is in the welder repair business, and works on a lot of old Lincoln, Hobart, and Airco portable welders and many of them use continental engines. I'm pretty sure I know what Y112's F140's and F162's look like outside and inside as well as the various exploded views when they are strung around the shop apart.
Plastic
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Went and saw the forkllift again.
the serial numbers were extrememly hard to read even with scraping off all the paint, the metal stamped numbers were deformed abit. Hopefully this is all there was I couldn't tell if there were any more numbers after what I had written down
19668 stamped above the letter/numbers E or L 15300 can't tell which letter it was
Distance between center of axles is 48'
The guy wants $1600 for it. There have been no forklifts that can lift 4000 pounds for under $4000 in the last 5 months in our province. I have been watching like a hawk for a forklift around the $4-5000 price range. There are lots of forklifts though for $4500+, this one even though it is cheaper I am somehow drawn to its age, and simplicity. Its kinda neat to have an old vintage machine. I would only maximum lift 4000 pounds with it, on a packed gravel driveway, dual wheel would be nice to have, but I can add duals later.
What are your opinions on operating older machines? Are there many parts that are not available for these old forklifts that make owning one a headache? Or can most parts be sourced via the internet? I have to make a decision to buy or pass on this towmotor, and any advice would be very helpful. I am very handy, can make almost any part if needed on my mill or lathe. So I am not scared to own an old piece of history. I just don't want to have a piece of equipment that allways seems to be broken, and I have to fit in time to fix it, time is something I do not have much of. I would rather just go buy the part and replace it.
I really appreciate all what you guys have said about this forklift.
Diamond
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After you initially pour over it with TLC and needed maintenance due to neglect, it should be good to go for many years if you treat it like you -own- it, and you're not a gear grinding slam-banger on it...
Of course you'll put $1200 in large bills in your right front pocket to present to it's present owner...(you can begrudgingly go UP from there) find and point out any and all faults and generally speak in a moaning tone about how much money and sweat you'll have to invest in the ugly beast...keep shaking your head 'no' as you point out the faults..
I don't freely share my acquisition tactics with just -anybody- so consider this a rare tip..
bigais
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The 48' wheelbase will make it a Mod. 480P which should be a 4000# capacity. None of the other numbers give me any clue as to the year or production #. It sounds like you are in a sellers market and will have to try to get it at the best figure you can and hope everything works out OK? They are pretty simple and basic trucks.
If you find thr ser.# stamped on the front of the frame it will start '480P' and the next 2 numbers will be the year and the last 3 or 4 will be the production #. Hope this helps?
Ox
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FWIW - I gave $400 for mine <20 yrs ago - with a broken fork and hard tires.
1600 Loonies sure sounds like a plenty!
If the guys that know the motor don't think that is a liability, I wouldn't be scared of the rest of the machine.
The pnuematic tires will help in the snow a BUNCH.
---------------
Think Snow Eh!
Ox
Plastic
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So I ended up getting this forklift for $1300+200 delivery. Once it is here I can go over it better, and take more pictures of anything I do to it. And probably ask many more questions about it.
Thanks again. Will post more once I get it delivered.
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She arrived today, kinda neat to have an old forklift like this. Bummer, I missed the broken fork and gussets welded on the side of it.
Any body know of an online used forklift forks seller?
The brakes don't work, I notice there is a bolt sticking out of the backing plate close to the brake bleed valve, is this to adjust the brake shoes? It has a new master cylinder, just nothing on the pedal, which is on the floor, maybe it wasn't blead properly, and shoes need to be adjusted.
The new master cylinder is mounted on an angle, is this the way they are, or is this one the wrong one? and it needs to be level?
So tonight I tried to bleed it, and it is a pain in the butt. I get pressure, then it fades away. There is still air in the MC. Maybe have to jack up the rear of the forklift to get it level, then try to bleed it again.
Last edited by Billyisgr8; 08-10-2011 at 02:23 PM.
bigais
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It would probably be good to jack up the truck and block it on the frame and pull the wheels to see just what you have, ie , wheel cylinders and shoe lining. Be sure that the wedges and bolts are thru the mast where it mounts on the bar on the frame or you can lift the mast off the truck by accident.This will also let you see the adjusters and how they work. I don't remember the position of the MC but don't see it as a bleeding problem. A pressure bleeder would help if air is a problem?
bigais
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'Any body know of an online used forklift forks seller?'
I would try these folks only because they are in Canada and you do not say where you are in Canada?
R & R Forklifts,7-63 McIntyre Place, Kitchener Ont. N2R 1J5 Ph.519-748-2287
I know nothing about them- Just on their email list?

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